I own a 2001 Mustang Cobra and since i got it i started collecting ebay auctions to come up with the parts switch it over to an Eaton Supercharger just like the 03 04's. At one time I had 3 superchargers sitting in the basement, sometimes i would need a couple things out of an auction and it came with it. Oh well i'll just resell them back on ebay when the market is right.
Till one day i said to myself "Self what are we doing? Everybody is putting superchargers or turbos on." So I decided to be different. Did my research and found something that hadn't really been done before in a stock mustang. I changed from Fuel Injected to Carburetter! Let me tell you, this is not for the weak of Heart! It took me 3 weeks, half ass garage that I have I probably could have done it in 1, plus you have to spend time with the girlfriend. I tried getting her to come out and help work on it, but you know how it is.
So here is my how you can change your Fuel injected Mustang to Carburetter. All links to products will be at the end of this article.
For reference you will need butt splices, zip ties, wire cutters, standard and metric sockets and wrenches and a few other odds and end tools that will come in handy. For the intake I used no other that Sullivan Performance 4.6l intake manifold you can pick it up for $679 + shipping. This intake is specifically designed for the 4.6 or the 5.4l DOHC, which means this build is possible on other vehicles as well. Without fuel injectors you are going to need a different ignition system, I used an MSD Mod6 PN6011 I picked one up from KarKraft for $400 + shipping. Next you will need a 600cfm or 650cfm Carburetter. I picked mine up locally from Joe at Hires Performance for $300 with tax.
You start by disconnecting the battery and pulling it out, disconnect your throttle and cruise control lines from the throttle body and pull and tuck them up by the fender, they won't get in the way there. There are only a couple vacuum lines that need disconnected, pull your PCV(drivers side valve cover and then pull the ones from the top of your manifold. Illustrated in Yellow.
Remove your air filter setup, couple plugs and a screwdriver for the clamp and it pulls right off. Pull your upper intake manifold via about 7 or so bolts and removed the EGR and you should see your fuel injector rail very easily now. Now you are suppose to have some special tool from ford to take off your fuel rail from the pressure regulator (illustrated in Blue), however; i found that a small flathead will do the trick. Then remove your sensor plugs such as your MAP, PCM (end of Fuel Rail), IAC, Throttle Position, and Injectors. The intake can be lifted out with injectors and rail still mounted, i left them as is. Before you can lift it out you will need to unbolt the alternator/water bracket which is connected to the lower intake. If your good you can lift it up just enough the get the lower bracket out of your way and not lose too much coolant. Next unbolt the lower intake from the heads and carefully life it out. It comes out with kinda a struggle.
Get your new intake painted, powder coated, polished, however you want to do it. I was going to hand polish mine, WOW! That was exhausting. So I painted it for now, it will come later and be powder coated. After you have that started you can start to focus on your wiring and how your going to plumb your new carb setup and MSD controls. I started by plugging my MSD into the Coil Packs and seeing how much slack I had in the line, not much. Only logical place to put it was where the MAF used to sit, so thats where it is. KarKrafts kit comes with a new MAP sensor, I still haven't figured out where to mount it. So it sits under the intake for right now. Hook run the wires for your crank sensor (they give you plenty of wire for that since its right there on that side of the engine right beside the AC) if you look under the car you will see it. CAM sensor is right behind the Power Steering reservoir, easy 3 bolts to remove. As for every plug on the factory harness that is not going to be used again, CUT THEM!! I know, I know, I about cried when i started doing this, thinking to myself well i hope i don't cut something off I need. Well I did. Just had to reattach it.
Now with the MSD in place your going to want to put the manifold on and dry fit some stuff. You'll need some 3/8 barb adapters and thread compound sealer for the for Fuel Lines, DON'T USE THREAD TAPE, it wasn't designed for FUEL!!! Do it right! Some 3/8 fittings for our air lines and some 3/8 hose and some 5/16 hose, you will see what all this is for when you are looking at it. Once you have your air lines figures out it's time to switch to fuel. Now, if you follow your fuel line to the fender you will see where it attaches to a metal line via a white clip. Unclip it and pull it off. I used standard 3/8 as high pressure line will not be needed anymore. Trick to this part, heat the end of your 3/8 line with a lighter to make it plyable, there is a notch on the steel line that this should slip over if you do this correctly. I used a 15' section for this, you will have some leftover just don't cut it yet.
Now you are going to want a Fuel pump, yes a new fuel pump. I went with a Holley 14PSI max and it came with a pressure regulator, get a gauge for it too while you are there. I got mine for about $120 from Hires. I love Joe, he is the man! Now the reason for the new Fuel pump. Well after trying and testing and testing and trying, I found that I could not bypass the relay for the stock pumps that easily. So instead of droping the tank and routing a new power line I bought another pump. Your factory computer will not recognize that the car is started with the new MSD on. The systems do not talk to one another. So when you turn the key you hear the pumps prime themselves for 2 seconds but that will be it. I found the best place to mount this to be where the air filter used to sit. Mounting the pump and the regulator are simple following the instructions. Again please use thread sealing compound!
Time to mount the carb. Best way to put your studs in the manifold is to use the two nuts tightened together method. You take one nut and thread it on about have way down the stud, then the second. Tighten them together, then to put the stud in take a wrench or gear wrench and start tightening the top nut, this will rotate the entire stud until it's all the way in the manifold. Kinda old school, but works good without messing up your threads. Throw your carb on top and start planning on how to route your fuel line to it and your vacuum lines. I found this pretty easy plan out. Whatever vacuum lines you don't use on the carb be sure to plug with some ends.
With that all plumbed your going to want to fuse your MSD and Fuel pump and connect them to wires that are only hot when the ignition is in the ON/Start position. I found it pretty hard to find anything anywhere, even under the dash. Very limited, plus i wanted to know what i was wiring into. So I put my own fuse block under the dash and ran them there and put switches on the side of my center console. Fuel Pump, MSD Main Wire, and the Retard/Rev Limiter. MSD, Retard, Rev Limiter draw less than an amp so i fused them all together with a 2.5AMP. Fuel Pump calls for a 15 so thats what it got.
Your stock throttle cable is useless, it won't hook to your new carb, sorry. cut it and trash it. I got one from autozone, go down the Chrome aisle, you know which aisle I'm talking about. And find the steel braided line with bracket and a throttle return spring. I also haven't figured out what to do with my Cruise Control. I want to hook it back up but I'll need some way of doing so, still thinking about that one.
Once you have it wired and you have your fuel lines and vacuum lines ran, carb mounted and bolted down, it's time to start her up. You need to prime your fuel lines first and make sure your choke, if you have one, is all the way open. If you left the factory pumps in the tank you can prime you Holley easily by turning the holley pump on and letting it run. You can then prime it by turning your key to the on position, you will hear your factory pumps kick on for a couple seconds then turn off. Do this a few times and you should hear your holley start to gag a little on the gas. Now is the time to set your fuel pressure regulator to the proper pressure you need. My carb recommends 5-7PSI. I'm running 7PSI of course. Better to run the max than drop below normal and run out of gas in the bowls when your trying to get on it. Anyways by now you should have fired it up and listened to it purr for a bit.
If it will not start start checking that your MSD has power when you turn the key to the on position, and that you are grounded properly. If she spits and dies, check your cam sensor to make sure its plugged in good. If the MSD isn't getting reading from it, it fill fire then die right away.
I'll have more pictures of this project soon. I still need to get a new hood. Any questions ask away.